Panamint Springs is a small western-style resort located in the beautiful Panamint Valley in Death Valley National Park. Marvelous views of distant sand dunes and the soaring 11,000' Panamint Mountains complete the setting for leisure dining and relaxation.
I've stopped by just about everytime I'm passing through. I've eaten dinners there while watching the effects of the sunset sweep the beautiful and open valley, and hearty, tasty sandwiches for lunch on the veranda on ghastly hot days. Little birds dancing around in the shade or peeking through the narrow branches of the mesquite, watching me watch them. My favorite time is breakfast even though the rest of the day and evening are dramatic and dynamic. Last summer, I stopped by with my wife and grand-daughter for breakfast -- one of the most enjoyable meals I've ever had.
We had spent the previous night in Death Valley proper on the eastern side of the Panamint Range. I got up early and woke up my 14 year old grand-daughter, Kirstan. We set out for the sand dunes while it was still dark and had walked a good bit out into the dunes before the sun rose. On the dunes, sunrise is my absolute favorite time of day. Kirstan (flown in fresh from Connecticutt) had never been to Death Valley before and was excited about our little wake-up hike. The sky changed, in just a few moments from dark blue to purple to red-orange and the yellow light on the mountains across the valley swept down slowly to the desert floor. Ripples in the sand came alive and shadows flowed across the dunes like a mild and pleasent illusion. I have heard that you never know when you are making a memory. This was an exception to the rule. An exceptional exception.
After a brief bit on the dunes, we headed back, packed and checked out. It was still early and I remembered the veranda at the springs. It didn't take long to cross over Towne Pass and descend into the Panamint Valley. The road across the Panamint Valley is nearly flat and incredibly straight with only a turn at each end. It looked like a long way, and seemed like a long way, but within minutes we found ourselves walking up the steps to the restaurant at the Panamint Springs resort.
It must not have been 30 seconds, but it was perfect timing that after we had sat down, the doors to the restaurant opened and out came a smiling waitress with two cups and a steaming hot pot of coffee. The view over the valley was incredible, the coffee was great and everything on the menu looked good. I ordered a ham steak, the wife 2 eggs and sausage and the grand-daughter french toast. The food was superb and the service was great.
About four months later I found myself at the springs to spend the night. This trip was to join up with an informal group to drive 4x4 back roads into the southern end of Death Valley. I figured I'd stop in Trona and grab a sandwich for the next day's lunch. I made a few unscheduled stops along the way there so I arrived in Trona too late for some deli. I made it to Panamint Springs early though. I drove through the campground and made sure I connected with the group I was supposed to be with. They were there, so was I. But the trip was off. At least by the planned route. A few of the more experienced drivers had made a pre-run. They said some of the unmodified vehicles in the group were not going to be able to do make it with current road conditions. They had however an alternative plan.
I checked into my room. It was a cozy little room with a nice queen size bed. A couple inconsiderate guests parked too far into the parking lot making it hard to park in front of my door as directed. The girl that checked me in came out later and asked if I could move a little closer to the room. I pointed at the cars and asked if she would like me to take my Land Cruiser and bash them out of the way. She said she'd go looking for the owners of the little cars. I did scootch over a bit, but the cars stayed there all night.
I grabbed my book and went over to the restaurant. Sitting at the tables outside I ordered a Ribeye steak. The service was, as usual, great. The waitress was friendly and the food was excellent. The tables started filling up with travelers from the highway in the front. Pretty girls and families and a couple couples. I smiled at the couples, winked at the pretty girls and made faces at the kids.
Luckily enough, I remembered that I hadn't lunch for the next day. I asked the waitress if the restaurant would be open in the morning early enough to get a sandwich to go. They wouldn't be open early enough for this to happen. The chef said what he could do would be to fix the sandwich before he left for the evening, and leave it in the refrigerator for me to grab in the morning. I smiled and replied, "Ham and Swiss."
The room was small. There was no television. I don't like watching that junk while I'm in the desert anyhow. I sat in the chair and read awhile. It was good and dark outside. A moonless night so far. I decided on a walk. Bats could be seen zig-zaging under the outdoor lamps hanging on poles high up over the cabin rooms. I walked over to the restaurant and sat in one of the lounge chairs in the grassy area near the building.
I've heard that it takes about 45 minutes or more to develop night vision. It only takes about 3-4 minutes to become able to see in the dark with minimal light. I sat there about a half an hour. I left the comfort of the lawn and walked down the nearly deserted road about a half a mile. This far away the street lamps of the resort wouldn't suck away the ability to see decently in the dark. A car came by. I was careful to walk well off the road into the black of the sandy washes before the vehicle sped past. I stayed out in the wash, walking slowy and carefully. I was wearing some light moccasins and practiced walking quietly. In the sand they were very quiet. I could see pretty good. My eyes had become so used to the dark. I walked maybe a mile into the black. I tried to stay quiet, but still there seemed to be nothing wild active. Maybe I was making too much noise even with the moccasins. I stayed in the sands and avoided the dark brushy banks of the wash and the rocks for fear of having something weird and painful happen to an ankle. After about an hour I found my way back to my room.
I have a little plug-in fan I carry on trips where I'll be staying in a room. I looked high and low, but could not find an outlet to plug the thing in. I wasn't desparate enough to dive under the bed and see if there were an open outlet under the headboard. So I opened a window. The bed was comfortable and I slept great. It was very, very quiet.
Since the 4x4 group decided on an alternative plan, I decided to run renegade and drift away on my own. I'm not gregarious at all and had made up a few alternatives of my own. I packed everything up and went over to the restaurant, opened up the ol' icebox and right there in a little brown bag was my sandwich. When I was a kid my mom used to draw little smiley faces on my school lunch sack. I smiled as I thought of it -- I hated when she did that. I checked the bag. Nope. No smiley face. Can't have everything I guess. I did have a great time though.
Summary - Staff was friendly, helpful and went out of their way for me. They also went above and beyond laughing at a few "purposely" stupid jokes I told. Food was fantastic, served in large portions in a timely manner. Other customers were in good spirits, intriguing and somewhat exotic (lots of European visitors shack at the springs). The room was clean and quiet although a little small. My last thoughts before falling asleep were "Am I the world's tallest midget, or the world's shortest giant." Overall, yes, I'll be back and recommend Panamint Springs Resort to anyone who doesn't have to watch TV to survive a desert evening. Located in Death Valley National Park on Highway 190, 48 miles east of Lone Pine, 31 miles west of Stovepipe Wells.
Panamint Springs Resort
P.O. Box 395
Ridgecrest, CA 93556
Tel: (775) 482-7680
There it is! Way out there at the base of the mountains.
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About the Reviewer Walter Feller has been eating and sleeping in places since he was a kid. He finds there is no special skill involved other than chewing with his mouth closed. Over the last 12 years he has been traveling mostly throughout the Mojave Desert, but goes other places also. He sleeps nearly every night, enjoying it immensely. He says he finds it "Rejuvenating." |
Ballarat Ghost Town, which is not part of the Death Valley National Park is a popular destination in the southern Panamint Valley. Be aware that there are no services, stores or amenities. There is/was a store. Back in the late ninties the store was open once. It may well still be, but I haven't seen it open. It seems now days it is used for posting messages to other ghost town and backcountry wanderers.
Wildrose Kilns In the Panamint Mountains south and east of Panamint Springs are the best preserved charcoal kilns in the U.S.
Darwin Falls in the mountains behind Panamint Springs are a year-round waterfall system that are worth the hike to see.